/* Bike, Beer, Belgium. All colour and type comes from the tokens here. */
@font-face { font-family: "Playfair Display"; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal; font-display: swap; src: url("/static/fonts/playfair-display-400.woff2") format("woff2"); }
@font-face { font-family: "Playfair Display"; font-weight: 400; font-style: italic; font-display: swap; src: url("/static/fonts/playfair-display-400-italic.woff2") format("woff2"); }
@font-face { font-family: "Open Sans"; font-weight: 400; font-display: swap; src: url("/static/fonts/open-sans-400.woff2") format("woff2"); }
@font-face { font-family: "Open Sans"; font-weight: 600; font-display: swap; src: url("/static/fonts/open-sans-600.woff2") format("woff2"); }
@font-face { font-family: "Montserrat"; font-weight: 500; font-display: swap; src: url("/static/fonts/montserrat-500.woff2") format("woff2"); }
@font-face { font-family: "Montserrat"; font-weight: 600; font-display: swap; src: url("/static/fonts/montserrat-600.woff2") format("woff2"); }

:root {
  --ink: #383838;
  --ink-strong: #0e0e11;
  --copper: #c5977d;
  --copper-deep: #8f6248; /* The accent, darkened to pass contrast as text on white. */
  --taupe: #8a7e75;
  --taupe-deep: #6b6058;
  --cream: #f0ebe5;
  --paper: #ffffff;
  --rule: #d8d0c8;
  --danger: #9a3324;
  --serif: "Playfair Display", Georgia, serif;
  --sans: "Open Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;
  --caps: "Montserrat", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;
  --gutter: clamp(16px, 4vw, 48px);
  --nav-height: 72px;
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { color-scheme: light; scroll-behavior: smooth; scroll-padding-top: calc(var(--nav-height) + 16px); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); font: 400 17px/1.65 var(--sans); overflow-x: clip; }
img, svg { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
a { color: var(--copper-deep); text-underline-offset: 3px; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
a:hover { color: var(--ink-strong); }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.15; color: var(--ink-strong); margin: 0; }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--copper); outline-offset: 3px; }

/* Scroll progress */
.progress { position: fixed; inset: 0 0 auto; height: 3px; z-index: 60; pointer-events: none; }
.progress span { display: block; height: 100%; background: var(--copper); transform: scaleX(0); transform-origin: left; }

/* Nav: solid unless site.js says we're over a hero, so it stays readable without script. */
.site-nav {
  position: fixed; inset: 0 0 auto; z-index: 50; height: var(--nav-height);
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr auto 1fr auto; align-items: center; gap: 24px;
  padding: 0 var(--gutter); background: var(--ink-strong); color: #fff;
  transition: background-color .25s ease;
}
.site-nav.over-hero { background: transparent; }
.site-nav a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
.nav-side { display: flex; gap: 32px; font: 500 13px/1 var(--caps); }
.nav-left { justify-content: flex-end; }
.nav-side a { padding: 8px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; }
.nav-side a:hover, .nav-side a.active { border-bottom-color: currentColor; }
.monogram { font: 400 36px/1 var(--serif); letter-spacing: -.02em; }
.monogram sup { font-size: .5em; color: var(--copper); vertical-align: super; line-height: 0; }

/* The third nav column balances the menu button so the monogram stays centred. */
.site-nav::after { content: ""; width: 28px; }

.menu { position: relative; }
.menu summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; width: 28px; display: grid; gap: 6px; padding: 8px 0; }
.menu summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.menu summary span { display: block; height: 1px; background: currentColor; }
.menu-panel {
  position: absolute; top: 44px; left: 0; min-width: 220px; padding: 12px 0;
  background: var(--ink-strong); box-shadow: 0 12px 30px rgba(0, 0, 0, .3);
  display: grid; font: 500 13px/1 var(--caps);
}
.menu-panel a { padding: 14px 24px; }
.menu-panel a:hover { background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); }

/* Heroes */
.hero {
  position: relative; display: grid; place-items: center; text-align: center;
  min-height: 100vh; min-height: 100svh; padding: calc(var(--nav-height) + 24px) var(--gutter) 64px;
  background-color: var(--ink-strong); background-position: center; background-size: cover; background-repeat: no-repeat; color: #fff; isolation: isolate;
}
.hero::before { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; background: linear-gradient(rgba(14, 14, 17, .6), rgba(14, 14, 17, .5) 45%, rgba(14, 14, 17, .65)); }
.hero-short { min-height: 62vh; }
.hero-gastronomy::before { background: rgba(14, 14, 17, .68); } /* Headline over bottle labels. */
.hero-inner { max-width: 880px; }
.hero h1 { color: #fff; font-size: clamp(38px, 7vw, 68px); }
.hero-sub { font: italic 400 clamp(21px, 3vw, 30px)/1.3 var(--serif); margin: 18px 0; }
.hero-text { font-size: clamp(16px, 2vw, 19px); max-width: 680px; margin: 0 auto 28px; }

.hero-home { background-image: url("/static/img/dinant.jpg"); }
.hero-destinations { background-image: url("/static/img/ghent.jpg"); }
.hero-gastronomy { background-image: url("/static/img/beer.jpg"); }
.hero-route { background-image: url("/static/img/bouillon.jpg"); }
.photo-route { background-image: url("/static/img/semois.jpg"); }
.photo-brussels { background-image: url("/static/img/brussels.jpg"); }
.photo-orval { background-image: url("/static/img/orval.jpg"); }
.photo-semois { background-image: url("/static/img/bouillon.jpg"); }
.photo-dinant { background-image: url("/static/img/dinant.jpg"); }
.photo-ghent { background-image: url("/static/img/ghent.jpg"); }

/* Buttons and labels */
.button {
  display: inline-block; padding: 14px 26px; border: 1px solid var(--ink-strong); border-radius: 2px;
  background: transparent; color: var(--ink-strong); font: 500 12px/1.2 var(--caps);
  letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;
  transition: background-color .2s ease, color .2s ease;
}
.button:hover { background: var(--ink-strong); color: #fff; }
.button-light { border-color: #fff; color: #fff; }
.button-light:hover { background: #fff; color: var(--ink-strong); }
.button-danger { border-color: var(--danger); color: var(--danger); }
.button-danger:hover { background: var(--danger); color: #fff; }
.label { font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--taupe-deep); margin: 0 0 10px; }
.label-light { color: #fff; }
.minor { font: 600 12px/1.4 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--taupe-deep); margin: 28px 0 10px; }
.minor-label { font: 600 11px/1.4 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--taupe-deep); margin: 0 0 4px; }
.center { text-align: center; }
.empty { color: var(--taupe-deep); font-style: italic; }
.fineprint { font-size: 14px; color: var(--taupe-deep); text-align: center; }

/* Sections and bands */
.section { max-width: 1200px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 72px var(--gutter); }
.section-wide { max-width: 1320px; }
.section-narrow { max-width: 820px; padding-bottom: 32px; }
.section-form { max-width: 620px; }
.page-top { padding-top: calc(var(--nav-height) + 64px); }
.section-title { font-size: clamp(32px, 5vw, 50px); text-align: center; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.section-title-small { font-size: clamp(26px, 4vw, 38px); }
.section-lead { text-align: center; max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto 40px; }
.band { padding: 56px var(--gutter); text-align: center; }
.band-cream { background: var(--cream); }
.section-band.band-cream .section { padding-top: 64px; padding-bottom: 64px; }
.statement { font: italic 400 clamp(22px, 3vw, 30px)/1.4 var(--serif); color: var(--ink-strong); max-width: 860px; margin: 0 auto; }
.band-dark { color: #fff; background-color: var(--ink-strong); background-position: center; background-size: cover; background-repeat: no-repeat; position: relative; isolation: isolate; padding-top: 88px; padding-bottom: 88px; }
.band-dark::before { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; background: rgba(14, 14, 17, .62); }
.band-figures { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: center; gap: 24px 64px; margin-bottom: 36px; }
.band-figures strong { display: block; font: 400 clamp(30px, 5vw, 46px)/1.1 var(--serif); }
.band-figures span { font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; }

/* Columns with a short rule under each heading */
.pillars { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 40px; }
.pillar { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; display: block; }
.pillar h3 { font-size: 26px; padding-bottom: 14px; position: relative; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.pillar h3::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; bottom: 0; width: 40px; height: 1px; background: var(--ink-strong); transition: width .25s ease, background-color .25s ease; }
.pillar:hover { color: inherit; }
.pillar:hover h3::after { width: 80px; background: var(--copper); }
.pillar p { font-size: 16px; margin: 0; }

/* Destinations: splits over a faint monogram */
.stop { position: relative; overflow: hidden; max-width: 1200px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 56px var(--gutter); }
.stop-text { position: relative; }
.stop:not(.stop-photo) .stop-text { max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; }
.stop-photo { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: clamp(32px, 6vw, 80px); align-items: center; }
.stop-photo.stop-flip .stop-image { order: 2; }
.stop-image { min-height: 520px; height: 100%; background-color: var(--cream); background-position: center; background-size: cover; background-repeat: no-repeat; }
.stop-text::before {
  content: "B"; position: absolute; top: -60px; right: -10px; z-index: -1; pointer-events: none;
  font: 400 340px/1 var(--serif); color: var(--cream);
}
.stop { isolation: isolate; }
.stop h2 { font-size: clamp(32px, 5vw, 48px); margin-bottom: 16px; }
.stop-why { font-size: 18px; }
.plain-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.plain-list li { padding: 5px 0 5px 18px; position: relative; }
.plain-list li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 18px; width: 8px; height: 1px; background: var(--copper); }
.stay { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 21px; margin: 0; color: var(--ink-strong); }
.stay-note { display: block; font: 400 15px/1.5 var(--sans); color: var(--ink); margin-top: 4px; }

/* Gastronomy */
.venues { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(260px, 1fr)); gap: 36px 40px; }
.venue h3 { font-size: 24px; margin-bottom: 8px; }
.venue h3 a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
.venue h3 a:hover { color: var(--copper-deep); }
.venue p { margin: 0 0 6px; font-size: 16px; }
.venue .label { margin-bottom: 8px; font: italic 400 16px/1.35 var(--serif); letter-spacing: 0; text-transform: none; }
.beer-log { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(260px, 1fr)); gap: 28px; }
.beer { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); padding-top: 16px; }
.beer h3 { font-size: 22px; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.beer p { font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.stars { color: var(--copper-deep); letter-spacing: .1em; }
.beer-place { color: var(--taupe-deep); font-style: italic; }

/* Bike Route */
.figures { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(150px, 1fr)); gap: 24px; text-align: center; margin-bottom: 40px; }
.figures strong { display: block; font: 400 clamp(28px, 4vw, 42px)/1.15 var(--serif); color: var(--ink-strong); }
.figures span { font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--taupe-deep); }
.figures-small { text-align: left; margin: 24px 0; }
.figures-small strong { font-size: 26px; }
.route-map { height: min(70vh, 560px); margin-bottom: 28px; background: var(--cream); display: grid; place-items: center; }
.route-map.leaflet-container { display: block; font-family: var(--sans); }
.map-fallback { color: var(--taupe-deep); margin: 0; padding: 16px; text-align: center; }
.stage-band { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.stage { padding-top: 56px; padding-bottom: 56px; max-width: 980px; }
.stage h2 { font-size: clamp(28px, 4vw, 40px); margin-bottom: 12px; }
.stage-summary { font-size: 18px; max-width: 760px; }
.profile { width: 100%; margin: 24px 0; }
.profile-fill { fill: var(--cream); }
.profile-line { fill: none; stroke: var(--copper-deep); stroke-width: 1.5; }
.profile-label { font: 500 11px var(--caps); fill: var(--taupe-deep); }

/* Journal */
.post-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(280px, 1fr)); gap: 40px; margin-bottom: 40px; }
.post-card { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; display: block; }
.post-card img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; margin-bottom: 14px; }
.post-card h3 { font-size: 24px; }
.post h1 { font-size: clamp(34px, 6vw, 54px); margin-bottom: 28px; }
.post figure { margin: 32px 0; }
.post img { width: 100%; }
.post figcaption { font-size: 14px; color: var(--taupe-deep); margin-top: 8px; }

/* Itinerary */
.status-banner { max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 16px 24px; background: var(--cream); border-left: 3px solid var(--copper); text-align: center; font: italic 400 22px/1.35 var(--serif); color: var(--ink-strong); }
.days { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(290px, 1fr)); gap: 24px; }
.day { border: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: 20px; min-width: 0; overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.day-today { border-color: var(--copper); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1px var(--copper); background: #fbf8f5; }
.day h3 { font-size: 24px; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.day p { font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.day-location { font-weight: 600; }
.day-stay { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-top: 12px; padding-top: 12px; }
.stay-name { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 18px !important; color: var(--ink-strong); }
.day-note { color: var(--danger); font-weight: 600; }
.flights { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(280px, 1fr)); gap: 24px; }
.flight { background: var(--paper); padding: 20px; }
.flight h3 { font-size: 24px; margin-bottom: 10px; }
.flight dl { margin: 0; font-size: 15px; }
.flight dt { font: 600 11px/1.4 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--taupe-deep); margin-top: 10px; }
.flight dd { margin: 2px 0 0; font-weight: 600; }
.flight small { display: block; font-weight: 400; font-size: 13px; color: var(--taupe-deep); }
.contacts { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(260px, 1fr)); gap: 24px; }
.contact { overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.contact h3 { font-size: 22px; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.contact p { font-size: 15px; margin-bottom: 4px; }

/* Forms, sized for a phone: 16px inputs stop iOS zooming in on focus. */
.form { display: grid; gap: 16px; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.form label { display: grid; gap: 6px; font: 500 13px/1.4 var(--caps); color: var(--ink-strong); }
.form small { font: 400 13px/1.4 var(--sans); color: var(--taupe-deep); }
.form input:not([type="checkbox"]), .form textarea {
  width: 100%; padding: 12px; border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 2px;
  font: 400 16px/1.4 var(--sans); color: var(--ink); background: var(--paper);
}
.form .check { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; }
.form .button { justify-self: start; }
.message { padding: 12px 16px; background: var(--cream); border-left: 3px solid var(--copper); }
.message-error { border-left-color: var(--danger); color: var(--danger); }
.admin-actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; margin-bottom: 8px; }
.admin-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 28px; }
.admin-list li { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 8px; padding: 10px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.admin-list .label { margin: 0; }
.admin-photos { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(140px, 1fr)); gap: 16px; margin-bottom: 20px; }
.admin-photos figure { margin: 0; }
.admin-photos figcaption { font-size: 13px; margin: 4px 0; }
.admin-photos .button { padding: 8px 12px; margin-top: 6px; }
.admin-day { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: 10px 0; }
.admin-day summary { cursor: pointer; padding: 6px 0; }
.admin-day .form { margin-top: 12px; }
.credits { padding-left: 18px; font-size: 16px; }
.credits li { margin-bottom: 8px; }

/* Footer */
.site-footer { background: var(--ink-strong); color: #fff; text-align: center; padding: 48px var(--gutter); }
.site-footer a { color: inherit; }
.footer-mark { font: 400 40px/1 var(--serif); margin: 0 0 8px; }
.footer-mark sup { font-size: .5em; color: var(--copper); vertical-align: super; line-height: 0; }
.footer-line { font: italic 400 18px/1.4 var(--serif); margin: 0 0 16px; }
.site-footer nav { display: flex; justify-content: center; gap: 24px; font: 500 12px/1 var(--caps); letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; }

/* Below 1000px the side links go into the menu. */
@media (max-width: 999px) {
  .nav-side { display: none; }
  .site-nav { grid-template-columns: 28px 1fr 28px; }
  .site-nav::after { display: block; }
  .monogram { justify-self: center; }
  .pillars { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
}
@media (max-width: 760px) {
  .pillars { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 28px; }
  .stop-photo { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .stop-photo.stop-flip .stop-image { order: 0; }
  .stop-image { min-height: 240px; height: 58vw; }
  .stop-text::before { font-size: 240px; top: -40px; }
  .section { padding-top: 48px; padding-bottom: 48px; }
  .page-top { padding-top: calc(var(--nav-height) + 40px); }
  .hero-short { min-height: 52vh; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  * { transition: none !important; }
}